Annapurna Base Camp: Once More into the Breach

After our short rest in Tatopani we headed back into the hills towards Ghorepani, stopping to spend one night along the way.  Instead of following the river valley like we had done on most of the Annapurna Circuit we went straight into the hills, climbing 1,700 meters in the first two days.  There were thousands of stone steps leading up through lush forests dotted with villages, some stretching over 2km.  We hiked with many herds of goats, some 300 strong that were also heading to higher pastures.

Ghorepani meaning "horse water" is the jumping off point for the famous Poon Hill trek.  We rose before dawn and got in line with the other 300 tourists for the hour walk to the top.  Headlamps twinkled along the way as we climbed to the top in the dark.  Sunrise was spectacular as we got our first real panorama view of the Annapurna region. 

Out of Ghorepani we had our first hike through rhodedendoren forests, the shrubs we're used to in the NW more like mammoth trees.  We climbed up and down, crossing river valleys and again ascending over ridges.  This continued for days as we got closer to the valley that would lead us into the sanctuary. 

The sanctuary is a religious place for Nepali people and you are not allowed to bring meat products past the last permanent settlement of Sinuwa.  Once in the valley we experienced some cold weather with rain and hail as we got closer to the top.  The day we ascended to the base camp there was still snow covering the ground.  We sang "Walking in a Winter Wonderland" as we steadily climbed into thin air.  Maybe the altitude was getting to us :)

Luckily when we headed into the Annapurna Base Camp the sun was shining, although it was still cold.  The views were stunning as we found ourselves in a large glacial bowl surrounded by peaks.  This was the closest we would be to so many giant peaks, and if we were so inclined we could have even struck up to Annapurna I.  We passed the time in our cold lodge playing cards and chatting with the other mountain junkies we met along the way.  The next morning we got up to see sunrise as the peaks changed color in the growing light.  It was hard to pry ourselves away from the views, but after 3 hours we decided to make our way down.

We backtracked along the same undulating route, the first day descending over 2,000 meters.  We climbed back up to Chommrong where we had delicious apple pie and then descended back down to Jhinu where we found another hot spring full of tired trekkers and Russians spraying eachother with champagne.

We took the next couple days to hike out, taking our time and enjoying the scenery of the Annapurna region before leaving for the bustling city.  We spent the last couple days trekking with a nice Isreali couple we had met on the trail, ending with some local raksi and a delicious meal.

Arriving in Pokhara after 34 days of trekking to the honking of horns, shouting hawkers and goats on the local bus was a little difficult (especially when the goat was pooping all over the aisle and shoving his butt into Amanda), but it has been nice to not carry all our posessions on our backs for hours over steep terrain everyday.  We do miss the mountains though...

Off the circuit and heading to Ghorepani

Amanda with her favorite mountain range, the Dhalagiris.

Machhapuchhre peak on the way to Annapurna Base Camp

Machhapuchhre peak at sunset.

"We're doing it!"

Annapurna Sanctuary

Stopping for a rest on our way out of base camp.

Hot springs in Jhinu.  You could even jump into the freezing river and jump back into the springs (Colin did it, Amanda watched).

One of our final views as we descend towards Phedi.

Finish.